Mike Shellim 4 Dec 2013Here are some ideas for customising your Taranis.
I have replaced the standard stick tops with shorter ones from a Multiplex Cockpit SX. These are a friction fit. I find them more comfortable.
Switches should come with a health warning: sprinkle sparingly! There are rather a lot on the Taranis and they get in the way of each other. So I've got rid of a couple.
I ran out of blanking plates for the second hole, so used a piece of exterior-quality black tape instead. It's lasted well.
One of the first things I did was to swap SA and SB, so that my main flight mode switch (SA) would have a long stalk. To preserve the meaning of the labels, the leads as well as the positions were swapped (which of course involved soldering). Note sleeving out of fuel tubing.
I have also replaced switch SE with a sprung 3-position centre-biased switch. Useful for voice confirmation on demand - push one way for RSSI, push the other for rx voltage.
My Taranis is a Rev A (no. 77 off the production line), and was supplied with 800 mAh no-name batteries. I replaced these with 2100 mAh Eneloops.
I don't use the Taranis' internal charger as there's no way to monitor the amount of charge. Also with the larger pack, a safety cutout kicks in after two hours, so the charge has to be done in two stages.
Instead, I use my regular bench charger (iCharger 106B). I've spliced in an inline 3-pin MPX connector to the battery lead for charging.
The only drawback is that cover has to be removed from the battery compartment to gain access, but it's a small price to pay. I set the charge current to 1.2 A for the 2100 pack.